Visit Jack London’s Former Home and Sanctuary
Located on an idyllic plot in peaceful Glen Ellen, Jack London State Historic Park (jacklondonpark.com) offers a personal look at the famed writer’s adventure-filled life. An avid sailor, London spent most of his life cruising around the world with the love of his life, his wife Charmian. Sadly he picked up pellagra on one South Seas voyage, which ultimately caused the kidney damage that killed him six years later, at just 40 years old. Today this Northern California state park pays tribute to the man who brought adventure to many readers through his words, and one who left the world far too soon.
House of Happy Walls
The best place to begin your visit is at the House of Happy Walls, which houses a museum dedicated to Jack London’s life and work. The house was built in 1919 by Charmian and Eliza Shepard (Jack’s step sister) in loving memory of the author. Although it resembles Wolf House (the London’s dream home) – which burned down in 1913 – it’s somewhat smaller at just 4,760 square feet. Charmian lived there until 1952; that is when she wasn’t traveling around the world or off on her own an adventures.
Accessible parking is available in the lower lot, and there’s a a 400-foot paved path that leads to the museum. The path has a slight incline, but golf cart transportation can be arranged by calling (707) 938-5216. There are also some accessible picnic tables and a accessible porta potty in the lower parking lot.
Although steps grace the front of the House of Happy Walls, there’s also lift access to the first floor. There is only stairway access to the second floor, but a 360-degree view of it all is available on a mobile touchscreen and in a booklet.
The museum includes a variety of London’s personal items including first editions of his books, a medical kit that he carried on his South Seas cruise, and souvenirs he collected along the way. It also features some original furnishings such as Charmian’s prized 1901 Steinway piano, and a small collection of her clothing. Take some time to admire the architecture of the building too, as it’s a work of art by itself.
Outside, there’s a half-mile trail to the remains of Wolf House, but it’s a steady downhill trek. Alternatively, golf cart transportation is available; and there’s another accessible porta potty along the service road that the golf cart takes. The house ruins include an interpretive plaque that describe the 26-room mansion, and the area around the home is fairly level. It’s worth a quick stop just to admire the grandeur of the home. Sadly the Londons never lived in the house.
Beauty Ranch
Although London was famous for his writings, he was also an innovative and progressive rancher. Today his Beauty Ranch site can be accessed from the upper parking lot in the park. Purchased with proceeds from his lucrative writing career, the 1400-acre ranch at one time employed nearly fifty people. London subsequently became known for his innovative farming techniques, such as crop rotation, natural fertilizers and terraced crops.
Accessible parking is available in the upper parking lot; and although there’s a paved path to the ranch, it’s far too steep for wheelchair-users. Alternatively, there’s an accessible hard packed dirt path with several switchbacks, located to the left of the paved path. This quarter-mile path winds through the picnic area and over to the ranch.
The first building you’ll spot is the Distillery, which was part of the old Kohler & Frohling winery. During London’s ownership it was used for farm equipment storage, and today it houses a collection of vintage horse-drawn farm equipment. Although the building dates back to 1888, there’s level access at the entrance, and plenty of room to maneuver a wheelchair or scooter inside.
London’s Cottage
London’s cottage is located next to the distillery; however the driveway is to steep for wheelchair access. Instead, go straight ahead and wind through the remains of the winery, that London converted to living quarters for his ranch hands. The building was destroyed by a fire in 1965, but a level dirt pathway leads through the ruins, When you reach the road on the other side of the winery, turn left and head over to the east side of the cottage, where you’ll find ramp access. Alternatively, golf cart transportation is available to the cottage.
The wood framed cottage, which was built in the 1860s, was enlarged after Wolf House was destroyed by fire. There’s barrier-free access to most of the house, which is furnished with artifacts and furnishings that belonged to the Londons. The 3,000 square-foot house features his and hers sun porches, Jack’s office, plenty of bedrooms and a separate stone building that houses the kitchen and laundry. It’s filled with lots of old photos, and stories about the practical jokes that London played on his guests. And if you have any questions, docents are on hand to field them.
In the end, a visit to Jack London State Park makes a fun day trip; but for a more insightful experience read or re-read London’s The Valley of the Moon, which was inspired by his life at Beauty Ranch.
